Waterford Single Farm Origin Irish Whiskey (Photo by the brand)

Terroir-Driven

Waterford distillery leads the world in pursuing terroir as the driving factor in creating unique Irish whiskey expressions. Terroir has been part of winemaking for centuries, part of the DNA of grape production, and incorporated into the very fabric of every wine bottle produced. The wizards at Waterford believed the same ideology could be harnessed for whiskey production, and they set out to prove the idea. Waterford’s Single Farm Origin series became the perfect case-in-point: Each farm-specific release uses barley grown on one local farm to produce an eponymous Irish whiskey expression. As a result, every bottle produced under the Single Farm Origin program showcases the grain and, more importantly, its terroir.

Controlled Outcome

It’s crucial to understand that Waterford did not want to be just another Irish whiskey house. They certainly have the street cred to do that and would likely have succeeded had that been enough. They intended, and by all accounts, succeeded in doing, to prove that terroir could be applied in whiskey production as a driving force. And not just from a scientific “what if” perspective. Technically, “terroir,” the unique flavor characteristics imparted by the environment, including soil, nutrients, climate, water, and more, are already part of the overall character of the whiskey. Waterford believes and has proven that terroir results in noteworthy qualitative and quantifiable differences, with all else being equal. And by focusing on terroir, they have controlled the outcomes to create differentiated products.

I recently had an opportunity to sample two more releases from the program (I’ve sampled many of Waterford’s prior releases): Rathclogh Edition 1.1 and Dunmore Edition 1.1. Each of these expressions exemplifies just how unique terroir can be. The farms are located approximately 180 km (112 mi) apart, with Dunmore roughly in west-central Ireland and Rathclogh more southeasterly. Like most Waterford whiskeys, these two expressions have a backbone of yeasty bread and a creamy mouthfeel and pour a pale straw, almost chardonnay-like, color.

Tasting Notes

Dunmore Edition 1.1:

At 50% ABV, the alcohol bite is mild, with a soft and relatively light mouthfeel. Once you pass the baked yeasty bread nose, courtesy of the malt, you’ll find sweet citrus notes, hints of winter spices, and a touch of moist soil. The initial sip reveals a lightly honeyed sweetness and notes of dry grasses and mown wheat fields. The swallow brings a hint of coffee, more spice, and a wisp of sweet pipe tobacco. Barrel spice and oak round out the finish, with a bite of white pepper, savory poultry seasoning, and finally, a resurgence of the malt.

Technical Information:
The whiskey was distilled in 2016 from Irina barley and then matured in four cask types: 33% first-fill American oak, 18% virgin American oak, 25% premium French oak, and 24% Vin Doux Naturel.

Rathclogh Edition 1.1:

Like the Dunmore, it sits at 50% ABV, although it seems slightly more prickly. Initially, there is a somewhat sour-sweet aroma, followed by lemon balm and pine tar notes atop the typical Waterford maltiness. Undeniably malt-forward, like most in the series. The mouthfeel is fat and rich, with a slight sugary sweetness. The sip leads with tart citrus followed by notes of dried tropical fruit, creamed oatmeal, and freshly cut sod. Although the citrus and malt remain forward throughout the dram, notes of coffee grounds, tobacco, and taffy fade into an herbal must.

Technical Information:
Like Dunmore, Rathclogh uses Irina Barley, and was distilled in 2016. Its casking includes 31% first-fill American oak, 19% virgin American oak, 25% premium French oak, and 25% Vin Doux Naturel.

Final Thoughts

Waterford whiskies defy typical Irish whiskey conventions by intent and actuality. “Typical” was never the brand’s intent, and these releases continue to prove the goal. If you prefer traditional Irish whiskey styles, you’ll likely want to look elsewhere. If you desire to explore alternatives and push your experimentation to the limits, Waterford offers a myriad of options. If you check your preconceived notions of what Irish whiskey can be, you’ll find a world of discovery in every bottle, and these are no exception!