Red hearts, red roses, and red wine are three special ways to profess your love for that special someone. And now, you can do the latter with a trio of top-shelf Pinot Noirs from what is arguably California’s “hottest” Pinot AVA: Santa Lucia Highlands. Straddling the border of the Santa Lucia Mountains to the west and the Salinas Valley to the east, the region is home to some of California’s finest Burgundian varietals, chief among them Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I recently had the distinct pleasure of sampling several Pinots I couldn’t recommend more highly: a 2018 Three Furies, “The Angry One,” a 2021 “Luli,” and a 2021 Rombauer.

The “SLH character” is evident in all three of these wines. Despite a generally dry climate, SLH has a unique climatic feature that impacts viticulture – a cool and moist afternoon wind, courtesy of Monterey Bay. Starting at around 1 pm and continuing until the early morning, with average speeds of 10-15 mph, the wind significantly tempers the valley’s weather. The result is an Amarine-Winkler rating scale of 1, the coolest in California and similar to the Burgundy region of France (considered Pinot Noir’s birthplace). The practical impact is early vine budding and a significantly delayed harvest time with photosynthesis, resulting in a substantially more complex character.

The least costly of the three is the 2021 Luli SLH Pinot Noir. At around $30 USD retail, it fulfills an essential market niche for an affordable but high-quality “classic” Pinot. Given its impressive profile, it’s one of the best wine values at this price point. Produced in partnership with Master Sommelier Sara Floyd and brothers Mark and Jeff Pisoni, the wine exhibits some of SLH’s best characteristics. Initial aromas of intense red fruits like cherry, raspberry, and ripe strawberry lead to crushed rose petals, cedar, and winter baking spices. Soft tannins structure a silky mouthfeel. Closing notes of black tea, black pepper, and a hint of oaky barrel spice lead to a long and luxurious finish. It’s a spectacular wine that could easily carry a significantly higher price.

The mid-priced offering (of the three) is a 2021 Rombauer SLH Pinot Noir. Retailing on its website for $65 USD, it’s one in a long line of consistently terrific wines produced by this family-owned winery. Although the winery is located in the Napa region (St. Helena, to be precise), Rombauer grows grapes in many regions, including SLH. As with most

releases, this deep ruby-red nectar is a sensory gem. The initial pour releases immediate aromas of fresh red fruits such as tart cherry, cranberry, and raspberry. Swirling releases additional notes of pencil shavings, crushed violets, and a hint of lavender. As it hand-warms, hints of old leather emerge, reminding me of the lounge at the El Tovar Lodge at the Grand Canyon. The mouthfeel is firm but supple, with a richly silky texture. Although youthful, it exudes the class of a moderately aged Burgundy, easily drinkable now but likely to gracefully age if properly stored. The red fruit explodes on the palate, expressing a rich earthiness not evident in the nose. The swallow releases warm winter spices leaning into crushed clove, backed by oaky barrel notes, pomegranate juice, vanilla, and a hint of muddled herbs. The finish is long, dry, and slightly tart. This wine expresses a deep complexity but in a perfectly balanced manner – just spectacular (and well worth the price)!

At the top of the trio’s pricing is a 2018 Three Furies, “The Angry One,” retailing for $85 USD. Certainly not what most of us would call a “daily drinker,” there’s a reason this winery commands this pricing – all they produce is Pinot Noir. Three Furies Wines is the culmination of winemaker Martin Mackenzie’s years of experience as the head winemaker at New Zealand’s Stonyridge Vineyard and as a consultant and winemaker at some of California’s most renowned wineries. Drawing on that experience, Martin created “The Angry One” in the image of the best French Burgundies. To define this wine as “complex” is a gross understatement. It’s a study in complexity.

Initial aromas of cranberries, pomegranate, and crushed blackberries lead to a rich background of soil earthiness, orange zest, and baked strawberries. Swirling releases notes of prune juice, anise, cooked mushrooms, coffee, and dark chocolate. On the palate, that fruitiness is perfectly balanced by bright acidity, keeping the sweetness in check. The mouthfeel is silky and firm, with structured tannins that build a foundation without overpowering. The six years of aging are starting to show, but it could easily withstand a significantly longer rest. The blackberry is quite evident in the initial flavors, along with soy sauce, more coffee, and a hint of slightly nutty cocoa. Mid-swallow releases more fruit, including cooked blueberry compote, ripe plum, and lots of winter mulling spices – clove, cinnamon, cardamom, and vanilla bean. The finish shows more dark coffee and cocoa, followed by toasty oak and a distant hint of smoke. It’s a wine that should be studied, not just tasted. And, as I originally stated, it proves why it’s well worth the cost!

If you want to make a bold statement this Valentine’s Day, you can’t go wrong with these fabulous Santa Lucia Highland Pinot Noirs. At each price point, these three wines live up to the reputation that SLH has built for its Burgundy varietals. Not doing anything special for Cupd’s Day? No problem! These wines are class-defining examples of what makes Pinot Noir rival Cabernet Sauvignon as the pinnacle of red wines. One thing is certain: Experiencing these three wines makes me want to explore other wines produced in the region. However, after these three, it’s hard for me to believe that Santa Lucia Highlands could produce anything better. That said, sampling other SLH wines is a burden I’m willing to undertake for the sake of our readers!!!