Four Gates: A Kosher Cult Winery

Labeling a kosher winery as a “Cult Winery” may seem odd, but Four Gates Winery qualifies. The wine trades consider a winery to have risen to “cult” status by producing limited quantities of exceptional quality wine, often at prices that reflect its high demand and limited supply. Four Gates Winery typically lists its wines exclusively on its winery website, frequently selling out in minutes to avid fans. No idol worship or cult-like behavior is involved – winemaker Binyomin Cantz is devoted to producing wine for kiddush and Jewish religious use. But don’t think of the typically sweet kiddush wine! Benyo, as friends and fans call him, single-handedly produces wines that kosher wine critics routinely consider best-in-class.

Nestled in the serene Santa Cruz Mountains of California, Four Gates Winery stands as a remarkable example of boutique winemaking. Founded in 1997, the winery has carved a niche as one of the few producers of premium kosher wines in the United States. With a hands-on approach and a commitment to quality over quantity, Cantz has established Four Gates as a hidden gem among wine enthusiasts and kosher wine connoisseurs alike.

A Singular Vision

Born into a secular Jewish family, Cantz’s journey into winemaking began serendipitously. In 1971, he moved to the Santa Cruz Mountains to watch over his UC Santa Cruz art professor’s property. The property’s beauty captivated him, and he developed a deep connection to the land. Over time, as he became more religious, Cantz sought to create kosher wines for Sabbath and holiday observance. This personal mission led him to plant 3.5 acres of vineyards, cultivating varietals such as Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, releasing Four Gates’s first commercial vintage in 1996.

What makes Cantz unique is his holistic approach to the craft. Living alone on his mountain as Four Gates’ sole winemaker, vineyard manager, and owner, he oversees every aspect of production—from planting vines to bottling the final product. His hands-on philosophy ensures that every bottle reflects the nuances of the land and his personal touch. Cantz describes his multifaceted role as encompassing three jobs: farmer, vintner, and salesman. Remarkably, Cantz is self-taught, with no formal wine education nor any previous extensive experience working in a winery. When he had questions, he called on his winery neighbors for advice. During the harvest, he gets a little extra help from an assistant. Most notably in the past, Josh Rynderman, now the winemaker at South African Essa Wines, would join to assist, learning the skills that have launched his exciting label.

The Santa Cruz Mountains are famed for microclimates and diverse soil composition. The estate’s elevation and cool maritime influence create ideal conditions for growing premium wine grapes. The vineyard is situated on a south-facing slope surrounded by oak and redwood forests, looking down the valley to the Pacific Ocean.

Cantz is a staunch advocate of sustainable agriculture. The vineyard employs organic farming practices, and the vines are dry-farmed, relying solely on natural rainfall, which leads to lower yields but more concentrated flavors. Cantz even utilizes manure from his own horses and goats to enrich the soil.

Unlike most kosher wineries, Cantz will not flash-pasteurize any of his wines to make them mevushal—a process that allows the wine to be handled by anyone without compromising its kosher status. He believes that pasteurization can undermine terroir and prefers to maintain the wine’s natural qualities, even if it limits his market, as kosher certification agencies in the US allow only mevushal wine to be served by caterers or in restaurants.

With high acidity and balanced tannins, Four Gates wines are best with a few years of aging and even better with many. Cantz also purchases grapes from area properties for some of his wines, so look for an “estate” label to differentiate between the grapes he has grown and those he acquired. I haven’t tasted any difference in quality between these bottles, but some claim the estate wines are much better. Most of the bottles I have purchased are aging in my wine fridge, so it will be a few years before I have an opinion.

Competition is fierce for Four Gates wines, and my fellow Benyo fanatics won’t be happy if I tell you when the wines next go on sale. But it is very soon! Note that demand has driven up prices in recent years, and if you are truly interested, you will need to sit at your computer and purchase immediately to get the best bottle and best prices. The following week, Four Gates usually holds an auction for sales of aged wines from the winery collection.

If you miss out on the sale, be aware of a robust but controversial secondary market for Four Gates wines. Even with the price jump in recent years, many of his wines are below market value, leading to speculators purchasing his wine for resale. Cantz could price his wines even higher but reportedly does not, making them accessible to his customers at reasonable prices, even at the expense of his profit. Sadly, Cantz’s earnest commitment doesn’t deter the speculators but is just one more aspect of a truly unique winemaker with a level of spiritual devotion to craft that he captures in his wines.

L’Chayim!