Back in my youth, when we talked about “Kosher” wine, we typically referred to that party staple Mogen David 20/20 (lovingly dubbed “Mad Dog” due to its fortified nature). Back in those bad old days, we didn’t care about vintages, terroir, or wood aging. High alcohol was enough for us, and we drank way too much of that headache-inducing, mind-numbing, stickily sweet Concord Grape concoction. Thankfully, as we matured, so did the Kosher wine industry. As the years progressed, the “Kosher” aspect became subservient to the wine quality – ever present as a need but never driving the narrative. Today’s Kosher wines are world-leading and award-winning, spanning the gamut of varietals and styles and serving double duty for adherents of a Kosher lifestyle and wine aficionados alike.
I just received a care package of three Kosher wines from brands under the Royal Wines portfolio just in time for Passover (which starts tonight, April 22, 2024, at sundown), and felt it was my solemn duty (hehehehe) to share them with you! I must preface my review by confessing that it’s been many moons since I participated in my last seder, but I sincerely hope my impressions will help you in your search for wines for this holy week.
2022 Herzog Lineage Rosé
This Clarksburg, California Rosé is delightfully dry, pouring a pale, blushy, almost apple-juice-like color. Its earthy aroma of savory spices juxtaposes baked berry notes and sweet-tart candies over hints of mulled tarragon, sage, and rosemary. The mouthfeel is crisply dry and tart, with its 13.5% ABV filling the fruity sense throughout the sip. Initial notes of bright berries, including pomegranate juice and fresh raspberry finish with hints of damson plum, and cranberry. The finish is tart, with hints of nance, green olives, and dragonfruit. I sampled it chilled and at room temperature, preferring the former with food but room temperature as an aperitif.
2022 Lovatelli Monferrato Nebbiolo
Another brand under the Royal Wines moniker, Lovatelli, is a newly acquired label producing wines from Piedmont, Italy. Pouring a deep ruby red into the glass, it immediately releases intensely floral notes backed by dark fruits, fruit leather, barrel spice, and toasty oak. It’s round but tart, presenting as dry with firm but manageable tannins. The fruit is nicely balanced by moderate acidity, favoring the oak notes but also hinting at cedar. Tart cherry leads the finish, leading to blackberry, baked raspberry pie, and touches of eucalyptus and basil. At 13% ABV, the fruit and tannins remain supple, finishing fairly dry. This is a spectacular red wine to serve with tomato-based dishes.
2021 Carmel Black Cabernet Sauvignon
Standing as the big beast of the three, this wine is aged for 14 months in French oak barrels. Presenting as a medium-bodied cab, it represents the best of Israel’s Upper Galilee wine region. It pours a beautiful black-red in the glass, releasing aromatic notes of deep, ripe cassis, blackberry, baked plum, cocoa, and a hint of dark-roast coffee. The mouthfeel is big and round, although medium in body, and the flavors are deep and complex. Oak and tannins firmly balance the fruit, and the finish releases notes of cedar, more oak, intense dark fruits, and hints of menthol and black tea. It’s a classic cab in every sense!




0 Comments