Morris Signature and Muscat Single Malts (Photo by the brand)

Best in the World

Few brands can boast greater chops at making spirits than Morris of Rutherglen, one of Australia’s most storied winemakers. And now, it can add two single malt whiskies to its renowned portfolio. Founded in 1859 by George Francis Morris in Rutherglen in northeastern Victoria, the winery and ten-acre vineyard grew exponentially into one of the southern hemisphere’s largest and most prestigious wine producers. Managed and expanded generation after generation, the Morris name became synonymous with still, sparkling, and fortified wines, consistently winning awards. Its Rare Muscat was recognized as the “best Muscat in the world.” In fact, that very muscat forms the foundation of their newly released Muscat Barrel Single Malt, one of its three core whiskies just released. I recently had the pleasure of sampling two of Morris’ single malts, and I am pleased to report that these whiskies continue to uphold the brand’s reputation. Packaged in proper “Scotch” whisky bottles, the elegant labeling presages the quality liquid hidden inside. Despite being NAS bottling (non-age-statement), they exude refinement.

Morris Signature Single Malt

The Signature whisky is a classic single malt in every respect. Visually, it pours a deep amber with a tinge of red from time spent in ex-fill wine barrels. The brand describes it as having a “polished copper heart with bright topaz hues.” The pour releases a complex aroma that leads with baked fruits – apples, plums, and dark berries – replete with the flaky pie crust. Notes of dates, toasted almond toffee, and dark chocolate lead to polished leather and oaky barrel spice. The round and tightly integrated palate exhibits a refined sweetness akin to light brown sugar. Initial flavors of candied orange peel, ginger, cocoa powder, and pipe tobacco lead to hints of dried pineapple rings, dried apples, raisins, and more leather. The finish is long and refined, releasing its core flavors in waves, with caramel and fruit pie fading into a reminiscence of a fine amontillado. It makes for an ideal after-dinner, fireside, or cigar dram.

Morris “Muscat Barrels” Single Malt

When you make the “world’s best Muscat,” it’s logical that you would experiment with casking your whisky in those very same barrels. Where the Signature expression is refined and elegant, “Muscat Barrels” is unapologetically in your face with intense fortified wine flavors. Pouring an even deeper coppery-amber than its cousin, the whisky immediately fills the aromatic space with Muscaty goodness. However, the underlying whisky character is not lost despite the wine intensity. More tawny than sweet, the nose is balanced with pipe tobacco, old leather, dried fruit, and shortbread. It’s a heady and rich mixture that’s familiar but also refreshingly unique. Like the Signature expression, the mouthfeel is round and balanced but surprisingly soft, given its 48% ABV (The Signature is 44% ABV). The slightly higher alcohol does not translate into an increased prickliness – instead, it supports the complexity of its flavors. Although somewhat less refined than the Signature, it leans more heavily into its “dessert dram” status. Fruit is prevalent throughout the dram, carried through from the aroma deep into the soul of the sip. Cooked plums, to the point of being prune-like, dominate the initial flavors, leading to dried fig and date cookie filling, molasses, caramel, vanilla bean, and eventually, sweet cooked cereal. Dark chocolate is revealed in the finish, along with barrel spice, winter spices, and a sweet, fat, lingering kiss of fortified wine. I wouldn’t call it sweet, but it is even more dessert-like than the Signature malt, and what it lacks in subtle complexity, it makes up for in sheer force.

Final Thoughts

When most people think of malt whiskies, Australia is not at the forefront of their minds. But after sampling these two boffo quaffs, I’d argue it should be. Like so many other single malt whiskies produced outside Scotland and Ireland, decades of tradition and history must be overcome before making the same mark as Scotch and Irish whiskies. However, as long as products like Morris continue to enter the market, those of us who love malt whisky above all others will have the utter pleasure of making the comparisons and, as in Morris’ case, add to the growing list of impressive alternatives.