In October 2024, independent spirits importer ImpEx announced the release of its limited Edition Four from The ImpEx Collection. What makes this release unique is that ImpEx, considered by most in the business as “an honest broker,” started bottling, which seems like a conflict of interest to some.

I spoke to ImpEx President and Managing Director Sam Filmus, who explained why he sees it differently. “We all try to be different; otherwise, people will kind of get bored if we do the same thing. So, while other independent bottlers specialize in something that would be matured in ex-bourbon casks or hogsheads and then finished in some other type of ex-wine or ex-spirit casks, we try not to do that.”

Filmus told me about an exciting exception when a patron contacted him to see what to do with a cask of Springbank that had been matured for 23 and a half years but which he could neither bottle nor import. With Filmus’ help, they finished it in an Oloroso cask, took the bottles they wanted, and ImpEx sold the rest. It was an investment in a serendipitous find. Still, the ImpEx collections are usually more specific in showcasing single-cask whiskies that stand out for their individuality and craftsmanship.

When they lined up the four Scotch expressions of Edition Four – all hogsheads from Speyside – they were all very pale (there are two international expressions in the edition, too, but I didn’t taste them). Filmus discounted this appearance, noting that the color often depends on whether they come from a first or second fill cask and, though that also affects the flavor, the amount of color is not proportionate to the amount of flavor. “This collection is about preserving the spirit’s natural essence,” Filmus explained. “We don’t believe in heavy cask finishing unless it truly enhances the whisky. Our goal is to let the character of the spirit and the distillery’s DNA shine through.”

I had tasted all four of the expressions from Scotland before speaking to Filmus, and though I had loved the Benrinnes, I had not enjoyed the Royal Brackla. I asked Filmus about that. He said of the Benrinnes that he was unsurprised that I like it since everyone, “from newbies to gurus, love it!” But he also acknowledged that the Royal Brackla’s bold profile might not appeal to everyone, saying, “Each whisky in this lineup is meant to engage a variety of palates. Some will find their favorite; others may discover new tastes.”

By taking these “double-digit” aged casks from distilleries that often just feed into blends like Johnny Walker and J & B, ImpEx can share the characters of some of these otherwise obscured distilleries. But that means these bottles are older than you might expect, and Filmus stressed the need to give these older Scotches more time to breathe and warm up, which I did before my final tasting.

The sourcing process for these casks reflects the challenges and rewards of independent bottling. Finding the right casks is “about relationships and timing,” said Filmus. Once they find an interesting cask, three tasters “taste every sample three times to ensure the quality meets our standards.” But, because every cask is a one-off, ImpEx needs to be speedy in identifying a cask they want before somebody else buys it.

Limited Edition Four arrives just in time for the holiday season, offering collectors and enthusiasts insight into Speyside scotch. As Filmus put it, “Each bottle tells a story, and our goal is to make those stories unforgettable.”

Scottish Single Malts:

1. Royal Brackla 12-Year-Old (2011): When I first tasted this, it felt a little pear-like, though quite shrill. But, since King William IV made this his whisky of choice in 1833 and the distillery has been making heralded whisky ever since, I thought I should give it a second try. With time, warmth, and a drop or two of water to take this down from 58% ABV to nearer 46-48ABV, this Highland whisky approached apples with some nutmeg. Filmus said he enjoyed its “creamy, waxy texture and “a hint of burnt brown sugar and nuttiness.” I didn’t get anything deeper or more savory than lemon, which wasn’t particularly to my taste, but 15 minutes of air definitely made a difference.

2. Dailuaine 14-Year-Old (2009): At 56.8% ABV, this Speyside malt has a very vanilla profile. Since it has a refined and pale flavor, more of it is coming onto the market from Adelphi and Single Cask Nation – although usually finished in a sherry cask. ImpEx has gone for a purist approach, meaning spirit-strong with a pale color and a narrow flavor. With a little water, the expression develops some apricot and maybe a touch of anise.

3. Strathmill 14-Year-Old (2009): Again, this is a very pale expression. This 57.5% ABV Speyside whisky has a slightly medicinal aroma, and ImpEx even notes its unusual bubble gum taste. Even after some time and water, it still hits very high on the palate with a touch of peat and apricot. It’s part of the Moray trio in the town of Keith in the middle of “Malt Whisky Country,” but it’s the only one of the three that is owned by Diageo, so if you drink J & B, you probably recognize its high toffee notes.

4. Benrinnes 12-Year-Old (2011): I’m not sure whether I’m an idiot or a guru, but this was so very tasty. Even for Filmus, buying Benrinnes was a no-brainer; it was just a question of finding a cask at the right price. This 12-year-old Benrinnes is bottled at 58.9% ABV and has an almost plum aroma before a lovely, rich, complex sweetness in the mouth that I saw described as rosemary, which isn’t quite right but also not wrong.