Once again, Ardbeg proves itself on the cutting edge of tradition with this “legendary” 14-year-old single-malt Scotch whisky. It combines the tradition of ex-fill bourbon barrel maturation with aromatic Madeira cask aging to produce a new but pleasingly familiar Ardbeg. The story behind this expression clearly lays out the mystery and majesty of Ardbeg’s inspiration. According to the brand’s website:

“One dark night after a fête at the Distillery, the clip-clop of hooves was heard echoing around the yard. Those less swayed by mythical tales will tell you it was Rory, the Distillery’s greedy Shetland Pony – known for his ill-temper and devilishly sweet tooth. Others believe something else was afoot.

Distillery workers ventured outside to investigate. Rounding the corner, they witnessed a horse-like creature rearing up against a full moon. A ‘horn’ protruding from its head, it cut a chilling silhouette. The next day, rumours swirled about a sighting of Scotland’s national animal… a Unicorn.

Now of course, questions about a raided ice cream truck, Rory’s unlatched gate, and a strangely wafery-looking horn were levelled at the workers. But they know what they saw! Sure, a greedy-guts pony is plausible, but Islay is a mysterious place.”

Of course, it’s up to you to decide if you believe the tale’s veracity. However, I am not one to challenge the magic of the isles – I leave that decision to you. However, after tasting the whisky, you’ll understand there’s more afoot than mere mortal influence. Despite its light, nearly straw-like color, the aromas immediately underscore why it received a Double Gold medal at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2024 and two Gold medals at the International Spirits Challenge 2024 and the International Wine and Spirits Competition.

Swirling the whisky in my trusty Glencairn nosing glass releases aromas that scream “Islay,” with peat-driven earthy soil, sea spray, tarry rope, and distant smoke. Warming releases background notes of figs, cooked plantains, ground walnuts, pencil shavings, and a touch of almond toffee. Its 46% ABV manifests as an initial sting that leads to a fat and oily mouthfeel with a long antiseptic pucker. The initial bite of alcohol subsides, leading to forward notes of cedar forest, burnt toast, old polished leather, and dark baked fruits. Mid-swallow release hints of citrus, mango, and winter spice. The fruit becomes more notable on the back end, with hints of lemon meringue and grilled pineapple. The finish releases notes of pine needles, pie crust, brine, and, once again, far-off smoke. It is, all-in-all, a fantastic example of an Islay scotch, offset by the rich spice and fruitiness of the Madeira.

Ardbeg once more shows off its prowess at making classic Islay whisky while keeping the concept fresh and, in some ways, unique—just like the unicorn that inspired it. It retails for around $150 USD.