The Tilted Tiki (Photo by Gillian Gaar)

Tiki Heaven

When I think of Minnesota, I think of snow, not the tropics. Yet a trip to the North Star State had me wondering if it was nonetheless possible to find a taste of tiki — somewhere. The recent closure of Psycho Suzi’s Motor Lounge (in Minneapolis) took one obvious starting point off the table. But armed with some suggestions from local tiki aficionados, I confirmed that it’s just as possible to locate a decent mai tai around the Twin Cities area as it is to find a Fulton Lonely Blonde beer on the menu.

Pau Hana

“Sunshine is just a sip away,” reads the sign outside Pau Hana (Hawaiian for “finished with work”), a restaurant and bar in Savage (twenty miles south of Minneapolis). Don’t be fooled by the generic exterior and interior (though the “Wahine” and “Kane” designations on the bathroom doors are a nice touch). The drinks definitely have that aloha spirit. And what better to start with than the Kona Mai Tai, featuring white rum, three juices (pineapple, passionfruit, and lime), orgeat, macadamia, honey, and a float of dark rums? Orgeat was at the forefront; as I would learn, despite the use of various fruit juices, Pau Hana’s drinks were never overly sweet. As a fan of drinks on the drier side, this was a definite plus.

This was also true of the Siren’s Song. I was sure its use of pineapple, guava, dragonfruit, and lemon juices would make this a sweet drink, but the spice of falernum and white rum nicely tempered the sweetness. My favorite was the Jungle Bird, a blend of rums with pineapple and lime juices, honey, and a hint of Aperol that made it especially refreshing.

Apostle Club

St. Paul’s Apostle Supper Club has a number of different “environments” in the venue, including the tiki-themed “False Eyedoll Lounge.” But note that you can get the tiki drinks wherever you sit. When I visited, they had a menu of “Spooky Sips,” specialty drinks for Halloween. The waitstaff assured me there would be similar specialty drinks menus for other seasons; be sure to request one. Drinks were also available in novelty glasses you could take home (for an additional fee, of course).

I started with the Painkiller: Rumhaven Coconut Rum, dark rum, pineapple and lime juices, coconut simple syrup, and topped with sprinklings of nutmeg and cinnamon. A smooth, sweet drink; I scribbled the words “like a pina colada” in my notes (though it happily wasn’t as cloyingly sweet as some drinks of that ilk). Then I stepped up to the Pirate’s Grog: Trader Vic’s Dark Rum, Captain Morgan, E&J Apple Brandy, apple cider, vanilla honey syrup, and lemon juice. No prizes for guessing the dominant flavor of this drink! It reminded me of after-school snack time, with apple juice and cookies — almost (because the apple juice at mom’s didn’t have various kinds of alcohol in it) — in a combination that left you with a pleasant, mellow buzz. Bonus: the Apostle also has Kona Golden Ale on tap.

Tilted Tiki

By far, the best tiki experience was found in the charming town of Stillwater (twenty-five miles east of Minneapolis) at a fantastic place called The Tilted Tiki. The best atmosphere. The best food. The best (and most potent!) drinks. And far too many enticing offerings to experience in one visit.

Owners Chris and Patti Goetzke had a great love of the tropical and Polynesian cultures of Florida and Hawaii and, after creating a tiki bar at their home, decided the next logical step was to create a tiki bar for the public. Certainly, the Tilted Tiki has all the right visual trappings, from the oversized parrot at the front door to the surfboards on the walls and plastic sharks hanging from the ceiling. But it’s not just about looking good. On entering, I overheard a man at the bar say to the bartender, Jason, “I was told the best bartender on Main Street was here” — always a good sign.

Where else to start but with the Mai Tai? Featuring “Hearty Plantation rum” with orange liqueur, almond, and lime juice. Sweet — and strong. They also create their own drinks, like the Tooga, “The cocktail that put the ‘Tilted’ in Tiki!” With Captain Morgan coconut and spiced rums, melon liqueur, and lemon-lime soda, it’s the perfect accompaniment to an order of spicy Spam sliders or coconut shrimp tacos. The biggest surprise was the Makulu, which I tried on bartender Jason’s recommendation: gin, vanilla vodka, lemonade, almond, passionfruit, and lime juices. I usually don’t think of mixing gin with sweet juices (let alone with vodka). But this drink was delightful, the kind of cool beverage that goes down well on a hot summer day.

Drinks are also available in bowls, meant to be shared (the Tiki Trashcan is their version of a Long Island Ice Tea, with seven different liquors). And remember, these drinks are strong! It’s one reason I didn’t add the Zombie to the mix (and the fact that you’re limited to ordering just two) and also why I made sure to order food. And it’s most certainly why I hope to find my way back to this slice of tropical paradise someday.