Agave spirits are surging, thanks in part to brands like Cenote and Mezcal Amaras. Their dedication to traditional tequila and agave production methods, eschewing the cost-and-time-cutting additions of sweeteners and additives, has resulted in a massive upswing in interest in Mexico’s premiere spirits. Like whiskey, a tremendous width and breadth of variety is possible, even using 100% pure agave. Distinct character can be achieved simply by incorporating higher quality raw materials, harvesting agave at different ages, paying attention to terroir, applying different production techniques, and even selecting casking (for reposado and añejo). I had an opportunity to sample four bottlings perfectly showcasing this point.

Cenote Tequila Blanco

From the start, Cenote looks like a high-end tequila. While many traditional tequila brands opt for low-key, minimalist packaging, Cenote goes for the eye-catching. A silvery etch-designed cork tops a light blue bottle stamped with distinctive brand ornaments and an artistic label. And like its packaging, the crystal clear tequila within also differentiates itself despite its authentic 100% blue agave makeup. Instead of expectedly bright citrus notes, the Cenote is an earthy, spicy expression with vegetal, grassy, and black pepper notes. What sets this blanco apart is the extended time spent in American oak – three months, longer than most blanco tequilas. Despite the time on wood, it remains crystal clear, but the wood time helps dull the alcoholic bite. Thanks to its unique flavor profile, it’s a pleasure to sip and can easily add a simple twist to any tequila drink.

Cenote Tequila Añejo

Cenote’s añejo expression boasts an attractive copper color that matches the cap plugging its bottle. Enticing aromas of agave, oak, and vanilla lead to a plethora of age-flavored notes. One full year of maturation opens up with the same earthy agave notes in the Blanco expression and then blossoms into something much more complex. Rich barrel notes are brightened by vibrant orange notes and warming cinnamon spice, an evolution from the noted pepper spice. With distinct dark chocolate notes over a warm and spicy finish, this añejo is a super pleasant sipper set apart by its unique blue agave base.

Mezcal Amaras Cupreata

Unlike tequila, which can only be made from blue agave, mezcal can be made from dozens of agave species, opening the door to many more possibilities. Mezcal Amaras Cupreata is a perffect example. It’s a “joven” mezcal (meaning “young” or “unaged,” akin to tequila’s “blanco”),  made from the cupreata agave. This species carries an abundance of herbal qualities notable on the palate more than on the nose. Banana and pineapple aromas provide a bright and tropical base that sweetens the intense herbaceousness and the smoke that follow. Notes of thyme, sage, and wildflowers make an intriguing contrast to its deep smokiness. Even without aging, every sip is a discovery, a testament to the craft and care behind this mezcal.

Mezcal Amaras Espadin Reposado

Espadin is a more common agave used for mezcal, but there is certainly nothing ordinary about this expression. Just three months of aging in two different oak barrels give this mezcal a subtle straw color and faint wood aromas accompanying the fresh agave and smoke notes. Espadin agave has a mellower, softer profile, which, when combined with barrel aging, makes for an ultra-impressive sipping spirit. Subtle citrus notes peak through the smoke, which is soothing and warm. A slight minerality interacts well with the earthy smoke, leading to a long, rich finish with barrel notes that carry the smoke while taming the agave sharpness. The traditional focus of Mezcal Amaras is notable in both mezcals, but the added dynamic of maturation takes the Espadin Reposado to another level.

Although you may argue that these four spirits are too different to compare, they make the earlier point that traditional methods can yield impressive variety. And yet, they represent a great value when considering their expert craftsmanship. My personal favorite of the four is the Espadin Reposado by Mezcal Amaras. Striking a rare balance between smoke and vibrance, it’s as memorable a mezcal/tequila as I’ve had!