The Waikiki Bar Crawl

I enjoy exploring what’s new in Waikiki if I’ve been away for a while, taking in something old (a classic lounge), something new (a place I haven’t visited before), something borrowed (a pop-up bar, perhaps), and something blue (like a Blue Hawaii). I got to do all that and more on my recent trip to the islands. Here’s what cooking, cocktail-wise, in the tourist haven:

Mai Tai Bar

People are drawn to this place because of its history; the Royal Hawaiian opened in 1927. Once seated at the Mai Tai Bar, I was quick to order my favorite drink, the White Wash. It was the first mai tai I ever had with a foam float, something that’s become increasingly popular for this particular beverage. Bacardi Light rum, Ferrand Dry Curacao, orgeat, lime, pineapple juice, and a Whaler’s Dark Rum float (beneath the “Coco-Loco foam”) come together in such a soothing fashion.

I was sorely tempted to order another, but in the interest of research, I went for the Vic’s 44 Mai Tai, based on Trader Vic’s original recipe, with Pyrat XO Reserve Rum, Mahina Dark Rum, Ferrand Dry Curacao, orgeat, and lime juice. I’d rate it more highly than the signature Royal Hawaiian Mai Tai, which has pineapple and orange juice but no lime. But my budget was unable to stretch to the Ali’i Mai Tai, which is an eye-popping $40. Get to the bar early if you want to grab a table to watch the sunset. And dine elsewhere; the $30 “Royal Smashed Burger” is not worth $30.

Rock Island Café

This retro diner will delight fans of kitsch with its life-sized statues of Elvis and Marilyn, TV monitors displaying classic TV and movie clips, and an abundance of Coca-Cola signs. Get a “Magnum PI” fried chicken and bacon sandwich or a “Scooby-Doo” pizza dog. Upgrade your milkshake to “adult” status with a shot of your favorite liquor. And yes, there’s a cocktail menu as well.

When I asked what was special about the Rock Island’s mai tai, I was told, “It’s $7 during Happy Hour.” This means you could order three for the same price as a single Royal Hawaiian Mai Tai. It’s sweeter, as it uses coconut rum along with light and dark rums, as well as “tropical juices,” so it’s not a purist “lime juice only!” kind of mai-tai. But it’s still a decent drink, even at its full price ($9.75). And really, where better to imbibe a Blue Hawaii than under a movie poster from one of Elvis’ Hawaiian films?

Suzie Wong’s Hideaway

The bartenders were changing shifts. The new guy spotted a friend sitting at the bar and called, “Louis! You made bail!” Everybody laughed, and poor Louis was left trying to explain it was just a joke and that he really hadn’t been recently arrested. It’s typical of the friendly atmosphere you’ll find at this joint, the kind of bar that seems to know your name before you’ve even introduced yourself.

Calling it the “Hideaway” is apt; it’s tucked behind the Rock Island on a street with no street sign (you might mistake it for an alley). In the best dive bar tradition, the drinks are cheaper than just about anywhere ($5 for a well drink!), and they’re happy to make it your way. I requested a margarita with a Grand Marnier float and was pleased with the familiar sharp taste of Cuervo tequila on my tongue. Another bartender served up an improvised rum concoction when I said I didn’t want a standard cocktail. And how can you not love a place whose motto is “Cirrhosis by the sea”? Bartender Laura assured me Suzie Wong’s was the best dive bar in the area, and she was happy to provide a list of other similar establishments (see below). I’ll check them all out for you next time!

Green Lady Cocktail Room

Speaking of hideaways…everyone likes to think they’re in on a secret, such as discovering a speakeasy whose existence is only known to a privileged few. The Lady’s website doesn’t tell you much, except that it’s at the White Sands Hotel (where there’s another groovy bar around their pool, the Heyday) and that to seek entrance, you ask for “Room 8.” That wasn’t necessary when I visited; patrons were constantly going in and out of the door that lurks behind a bamboo wall, so it was easy to gain access.

The bar’s interior has that dimly-lit 1930s vibe; is that Sam Spade sitting over there, waiting to meet a client? (there’s also an outdoor patio). The green bound menu has drinks with intriguing names like “Free Shoe Shine,” “Cool Haircut,” and “Wrong Size Sweater,” and there’s an array of Absinthe drips available as well. I ordered a drink that is in keeping with the era, the Singapore Sling, and it’s a decidedly upscale version of this classic cocktail featuring Greenhat Navy Gin, Pacharan and Amaro Angeleno liqueurs, pineapple and pomegranate juice, ume shrub, bitters, and soda. Plus, the requisite cherry and mint on top is the most enticing. What an array of flavors to pass over your tongue! Get there early; the Lady fills up quickly.

The Monkeypod Kitchen at the Outrigger Reef Waikiki

I’ve been anxious to try the Monkeypod’s Mai Tai after hearing other folks rave about it, and indeed, it’s a winner. There are the ingredients you expect to find in a good mai tai, in this case, Kula Organic Silver and Dark rums, Bols Orange Curacao, and lime juice. But that’s supplemented by house-made macadamia nut orgeat (orgeat is usually almond-based) and a delightful honey-lilikoi foam float. Those two flavors helped make this the most luscious mai tai I’ve had, and you may be sure that I had more than one! I’ll be back.

Short shots:

The Halekulani hotel’s restaurants have new cocktail menus, courtesy of Director of Mixology Tura Sarian; try the Coconut Cake Martini … the Koa Oasis Booze Shack, fronting Fort DeRussy Beach Park, has great ocean views and good cocktails, though they close around 6 pm … the Vintage ’44 Mai Tai is the one to try at Duke’s Waikiki … Arnold’s Beach Bar has a tiki/surf feel, live music, and cheap drinks … the Cutwater Tiki Rum Mai Tai that you can purchase by the can at the ubiquitous ABC Stores is rather like drinking liquid cotton candy — beware!

PHOTO ALBUM (All photos by the author, Gillian G. Gaar)