Hunting Tiki Bars in Hawaii

A tiki bar in Hawaii? Isn’t that redundant? After all, aren’t tiki bars meant to recreate the lure of the tropics? So, if you’re in a tropical locale — like Hawaii — aren’t you surrounded by the real thing? Well, yes and no. There’s certainly no shortage of tropical drinks in Hawaii. And you’re likely to encounter places that are tiki in name, if not in spirit. Case in point? Tiki’s Bar & Grill is really just a hotel restaurant (albeit with nice views and tropical drinks).

But that doesn’t mean there isn’t an interest in seeking out tiki while visiting the islands. There’s even an annual convention about the topic (Tiki in Waikiki). On my recent trip to Honolulu, I tracked down a few tiki places of interest, including an up-and-comer, a tiki-with-a-twist, and a tiki institution.

The Pupu House is a tourist-oriented restaurant in central Waikiki that opened in 2023. “Pupu” means appetizer in Hawaiian, so there are plenty of sharable dishes and the requisite tiki décor (glass floats, thatched roofing). The music was decidedly more up-to-date, so I’d call the place “Tiki Lite.”

I began with the “Muy Thai Bo,” a mai tai by any other name, using Real McCoy 5-year aged rum, Pierre Ferrand Curacao, macadamia nut (presumably syrup; the menu didn’t specify), lime juice, and a sweet Tom Kha foam on top. Thumbs up for only using lime and no other juices, though I did miss having a dark rum float. But I found that missing rum float in the Tropical Itch, featuring High West Bourbon, Jameson Orange Irish Whiskey, lilikoi, mango, and lemon juices. Just the drink to bring on a relaxed and mellow mood! And bonus points for including a wooden back scratcher (to scratch the “itch,” geddit?). Note that there’s an adjoining bar, Kiki’s Upstairs, which I didn’t get to visit this trip.

You’ll find Skull and Crown Trading Co. behind an unprepossessing storefront in Honolulu’s Chinatown; it’s a popular spot, so I recommend reservations. And an important tip: request to sit inside, as that’s the area with all the décor (the back patio does have a koi pond, but it’s not nearly as atmospheric). Pineapple lamps, wooden Tiki gods, and shrunken heads in glass jars conjuring up visions of a horror movie — it’s all here. But though you might hear the sounds of Martin Denny in the background, there’s an undeniably modern feel to this place. I’d call it “Alternative Tiki.”

The tantalizing cocktail menu has its mysteries. Like the Dagger Mai Tai, for which there is no description (don’t let that stop you from ordering one). It’s a safe bet that the drink features some kind of rum and various spices, but ask the bartenders for more info, and they’ll only smile. There are no such secrets about the Maunakea Mai Tai: Appleton Estate, Clement Select Barrel, Smith & Cross rums, dry curacao, lime juice, orgeat, and demerara. It’s an array of flavors that provides a mai tai experience like no other.

Next up, a Crystal Skull (Clarified Zombie, being milk-clarified), featuring a Skull & Crown rum blend, pineapple, lime, and lilikoi juices, honey, vanilla, absinthe, bitters, and a special “Chinatown Spice Tincture,” creating a mature, bold concoction meant to be sipped slowly and savored. Finally, the Siren’s Swizzle, with three rums (El Dorado 5, Smith & Cross, and a Plantation OFTD blend), velvet falernum, lime and lilikoi juices, mint, demerara, and bitters; cool, light, and refreshing. It’s a most intriguing cocktail menu that deserves exploration.

Now to the pièce de résistance: the glory of La Mariana Sailing Club. It’s a bona fide classic and the only authentic tiki establishment left on Oahu. Owner Annette La Mariana Nahinu, born in Brooklyn in 1914, found her way to Hawaii and opened her sailing club in 1955; it moved to its present location twenty years later. It’s a bit tricky to find. Although the address is 50 Sand Island Access Road, La Mariana is actually one block off that road (an online search can help you pinpoint the location). But it’s well worth making the effort. La Mariana is a veritable tiki museum, with artifacts from such long-gone establishments as the Tahitian Lanai, Don the Beachcomber, and Trader Vic’s. Get a window seat to catch the breeze from the nearby marina.

After closing during Covid, the doors reopened in 2022, with both the food and drink quality improved. I accompanied my tasty coconut shrimp and rice platter with a Lilikoilada: rum, coconut milk, pineapple, and lilikoi juices. “Its winnas fo shua!” the menu description promised, and it was indeed a winning choice for a hot day. Then, craving something stronger, I moved up to La Mariana’s version of the Tropical Itch: white and dark rum, La Mariana’s own mai tai mix, pineapple juice, lilikoi puree, and grenadine, topped with a whiskey float. Yes, that’ll do quite nicely. It was great to return to this charming oasis. Take note: for lovers of tiki, La Mariana Sailing Club is a must-visit. I’ll see you there.

PHOTO ALBUM (Photos by G. Gaar):